The biggest issue is if the part and electrode touch then the resistance can be close to Zero Ohms. No problem.įor larger part/electrode current draw may go up to a few Amps.
This means (by Ohm's Law, that the resistance is E/I = 12V/1A = 12 Ohm. You could use this on smallish parts and electrodes and draw only 1 Amp. This depends on the size (surface area) of the electrode (item being de-rusted counts) and the type and amount of 'salts' in the solution as well as the distance between the part and electrode. How much current is drawn depends on the resistance of the electrodes and solution. So a 12V, 30A source will apply 12V to the electrolysis electrodes. It won't be here for a while though, estimated delivery is next Wednesday so just wondering about other peoples experience.ġ- Current (Amps) is DRAW by the circuit. I've dug up plenty already such as nails and stuff. Yeah I guess the best thing to do is just mess about with scrap when it arrives. Best practice will be to find some junk iron in the field and play with it. When I run my tank now, I just keep a close eye on everything no matter what I amp setting I run and may even pull things several times to scrub them up and check them. Also if you think about arcing electricity off of something, a strong current will burn the item, a weak one is just a spark. Now there could have been rust in those layers/graining of the iron, but my pieces on higher amps did have some stronger pitting compared to those on a 2 amp current.
It does clean rust faster, but (and this is a hypothesis) I feel like the the higher current flow starts to break down the wrought iron layers. The only thing I noticed when running the higher amps is that it seems to break down the wrought iron pieces faster. I use an adjustable DC power supply for my setup and have run anywhere between 2 and 15 amps when trying to clean up my iron pieces. Originally Posted by EmuDetector View post